Friday, June 13, 2008

Few impressions about base camp

The base camp is on a flat piece of ground where 15-20 10-men tents can be erected for the trainees. This space was sufficient for the basic as well as advanced course trainees. There is a stone wall shelter with tarpaulin sheets spread over wooden rafters as a roof. The space is just adequate to pack in 70 odd people, squatting on more tarpaulins spread on the ground. Few steel boxes in the center act as storage as well as stand for the projector, laptop and electric wires and sockets. A pull down white screen at one end is used to project the pictures/ training films and powerpoint presentations shown through the laptop. The instructors bring fold-able stools for themselves as the trainees squat on the sheets. Uncomfortable arrangement but they are making it bigger, utilizing the porters who stay at the base camp.

The fall-in area is along a raised portion of the ground where the kitchen and serving counters are located in another stone hut. Besides this are the water point, garbage pits and on the other side, the quartermaster's store. The instructors and staff tents are out of bounds for the trainees, behind the kitchen.

For morning routine, trainees are supposed to walk down a steep slope, into a dry khud and dig holes for themselves, using the ice axe. This was a tricky proposition, specially when there was snow or verglas and several guys were seen falling and sliding on the narrow path down the slope or on the boulders in the bed. We were told to cover up every day to avoid the toilet paper floating into air with the winds and coming back into the tent areas! This was the grossest experience for most of the city guys but everyone just went and did it, in absence of any other option. It was really interesting to see the way people adopted to keep water warm in their bottles for the morning routine, if they did not feel like using the T.P. Some will take warm water for drinking in the night, after dinner and keep it inside their sleeping bag to keep it warm. Others will try and cajole the porter in charge of the water cauldron in the morning and try to get some water from him. Most of us, used the T.P. though. Shortages were dealt with by ordering some more through the dak carrier, who supplied stuff on the fourth day after the order was placed.

The cold made the food always less interesting although to be fair, the cooks managed to dish out reasonable fare considering the harsh climate and the remoteness of the place. Pretty soon, my dinner became lukewarm soup followed by one cold (and wet from the snow) chapati with cold jelly or custard, washed down with diluted milk+horlicks. Lunch was rice with mutton curry, with some fruit for me. I hardly ever managed to eat the 'Daal' or the vegetable dishes they made, mainly due to the chilly in it. Breakfast was the best, with jam, butter, 4 slices of bread, eggs and daliya or cornflakes with lot of tea.

High altitude rations were 5 toffees, 2 khajoors, some kishmish each and 2 packets of biscuits for the group of 7. We were supposed to fill in diluted squash in half of our water bottles for the day, with water in the rest of the bottles.

We always departed in good weather, at 0730 or 0800 in the morning. PT was held before breakfast (0600-0630) but later discontinued as the weather deteriorated. The weather always went bad around 1100 and by 1200, it used to snow or rain. We always returned wet and cold with no chance to dry the wet stuff. The snow boots were always wet as was the windproof suit we wore everyday. Wet socks and gloves and a wet and therefore heavier rope to carry, rounded off the misery the weather brought on to us. Occasionally one of the guys in your tent stayed back due to medical reasons and that was a boon as then, you were sure that this guy will dry out and put back in, all the wet stuff in the tent, before the weather went bad. We could not do this otherwise, as we always returned after the snow started.
The first few days were pure misery as even after returning from the exhausting training trip up the glacier, you barely had the time to change and have lunch, before the instructors were shouting again to get assembled in the lecture hall ( the stone shelter) for classes. Dinner was also followed by movies on mountain climbing etc. The weather went from bad to worse and soon, the drop outs from the course reached 16!

This lead to some readjustments and our course leader was instrumental in getting our point across. Soon we had free time after lunch, till 430 pm, followed by class or volleyball if weather permitted. The movies turned into Hollywood stuff like cliffhanger, vertical limit and touching the void. Thereafter the movies were also made optional. PT stopped altogether as we settled down into the routine.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Move to the mountains: Reaching base camp

We started from Gujjar Hut on the next morning (third day) after breakfast and reached Base Camp in quick time. We had to wait for out tents, which were being ferried by the porters and then helped each other set up their tents. The base camp was on a flat piece of land overlooking the end part of the lateral moraines of the dokriani glacier which had receded quite a bit ever since the camp was set up several years back. The snout was a good 1 km or more away from the base camp. The base camp was at the edge of the cirque (the circle of high peaks forming a bowl) in which this glacier was formed and had few stone walled tent covered structures, viz., the kitchen, quarter master's store and lecture hall. We pitched 11 tents, along 5 more for the advanced course and 5-6 tents for the instructors, vice principal, doctor and support staff. Across a nallah, were more structures, housing the porters. We could see camp of Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology established in connection with a sub project on Glaciological studies of Dokriani Glacier.

My rope broke up and got divided into other tents as there was one tent less (11) than the number of ropes (12). We had a few classes and a movie (everest climbing) before we went to sleep.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Move to the mountains: Tela camp to gujjar hut

After a night's rest at Tela Camp, we were ready early next morning to start onwards for Gujjar Hut. The previous day's trip was about 5-6 kms but we were to go about 14 kms and hence we folded out tents, had an early breakfast and were ready to go by 7 AM. The forest was dense and virgin and sun had difficulty in breaking through the dense foliage. However, we were again herded and goaded on by our minders which was the sole spoiler for most of us. However, as the terrain became difficult, it was difficult for some of us to keep pace and slowly the group spread into a long file, with big gaps. The group got together at the rest stops but as we went up from about 8000 ft to 10000 and then some more, breathlessness was the most common complaint. However, we did not slow down much and covered good ground to reach our lunch point in the forest (after a back breaking continuous climb in which we gained 1000 ft in 30 minutes) by 1300 hours.

We started again after lunch and soon came to a meadow from where we could see the tents at Gujjar hut from afar. The view of the snow clad peaks was breathtaking from this spot which was our last rest point. Snow was close by and within touching distance, in the shady parts of the slopes. We reached Gujjar hut and pitched our tents in the face of an approaching storm. Soon it started raining but we went to Khera Taal, about a km away. We had thin polythene sheets to protect us from the rain which became more persistent as we came back and soon turned into a torrent by the time we were back. We scurried to our tents and mercifully were treated to some late evening sunshine which played on the mountain peaks to give us some beautiful pictures which everyone was busy clicking.

It was time to check out the area for the morning routine and soon the sun set, leaving us little time to organize our stuff in the tents and after a hurried dinner we went to sleep.

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Move to the mountains 1

We were busy packing our stuff for the 17 day trip (later curtailed by 2 days) to the training area in Dokriani glacier. It was hard to decide on what to take as your personal stuff as we were acutely conscious of the fact that any item added was more load on our back. So shaving kit went out along with everything else except 2 T shirts, 2 track suit lowers, one track suit upper, one pair of thermal inners, 4 pair socks (2 woolen) and 3 pairs of gloves (1 waterproof, 2 woolen) and 4 underwears. Toothbrush, paste, sunblock, my camera, cellphone (for the gps) and a big toilet paper roll rounded off the required material. To fit all of this in the ruck sack with the gaiters, crampons, feather jacket, sleeping bag, snow boots, helmet, sling and harness was tough. 2 of us packed in the ropes, empty kit bags, mittens etc. The mess tin, mug, spoon and water bottle went in the side pockets and the carrymat was strapped on the side.

We loaded these sacks on the top of the bus and went to Bukki (2 hours). Enroute, we had a stop for tea etc., at Bhatwari. The road was pathetic, though it is a national highway. It brought back memories of another NH in Sikkim where lot of construction and tunneling works for hydro power projects had damaged the highway considerably. Bukki road head had a cluster of tea shops and that was just about it. We unloaded our stuff and went across a suspension pedestrian bridge over the Bhagirathi, onto a trail that meandered up the hill side through the Bukki village. Soon the going became tougher with the instructors shouting at the stragglers and continuously asking us to close the gaps in the single file in which we were moving.

The scenery was interesting but there was hardly any time to enjoy it. The trek was more like a goatherd driving his goats on. All we saw was the back of the guy in front as we were minded up the hill.

We were given stops every hour, to rest and have some water/ refreshment. The path went across streams of water coming down from the snow clad peaks. Mostly there were tree trunks across the water for crossing.

We reached Tela camp site inside 3 hours. It was a flat clearing in the middle of the forest. Clean water stream was available. Soon we pitched our tents and were taken down a slope where we were told to dig holes for ourselves for the morning routine. We did that and came back wondering as to how we will find our own place in the morning darkness! The doctor took a class where we were told about high altitude sickness etc. and we winded up for the night.

Mastering the rocks

The daily trek to Tekhla was meant to condition us for the mountains. The rucksack weighed about 10-13 kgs and as we made our way through the town towards Tekhla, it was quite a sight for the locals. We were initially 92 trainees and about a dozen instructors. The 8.6 km took us 2 hours with a break of 10 minutes thrown in. Slowly we reduced the time taken and the stragglers reduced in number.
Climbing the rocks was a thrill, specially the longer pitches. Slowly we mastered the art of belaying each other up the rock faces and rappelling down. We were served breakfast and lunch at Tekhla with a juice break thrown in. The juice was really diluted squash and two biscuits, but anything was welcome in the hot weather.

Handling the mess tin was also something we learnt quickly. It was an aluminum contraption shaped like an oblong tiffin in two halves making a pan each, one slightly larger than the other. Both parts had a prong like (U shaped) handle which could fold back into the pan. Now the smaller pan with folded handle went into the larger half and voila! you had a folded mess tin which could be opened out with some difficulty and you had two pans to get food in. Handling two pans with hinged handles, a spoon and a steel mug took some adjustments. We queued up for breakfast and got an omelette (supposed to be 2 eggs, but the size varied), 2 pieces of bread with butter in between, two more bread slices with jam in between, some cereal (daliya/ cornflakes) and lot of tea. Occasional change was paranthas and bhature.

The return journey was in 2 buses and an ambulance, belonging to the institute. On returning, we had some more classes and films, to keep us busy till 8 pm. We were already looking forward to the move to the mountains.

Members of my rope and how I got a scar

We were a rope of 7 members. Besides me there were:

1. Bishal Thapa, employed in Sashastra Seema Bal (SSB), hailing from Darjeeling.

2. Amol, a student, from Akola who was sponsored by a club carrying out adventure activities in his home town.

3. Pratik Agrawal, an undergraduate student from Mumbai.

4. I. James, an undergraduate student from Tamilnadu, sponsored by National Cadet Core(NCC).

5. Krishan Pal Singh, a student of 12th std, from Uttarkashi.

6. Satpal Singh Makhloga, a local from Uttarkashi, aspiring to get employment with some adventure sports company.

Bishal and Satpal were in their early 20s and all others were 18-19 yrs old.
Despite the age difference with me, we had a good time together and we bonded really fast and well together as a group. We were allotted a room with capacity to house 6 people and Bishal went to another room. We were allocated an instructor, Mr. Anil Saklani, who was on contract for the period of the course, with NIM. The training at NIM started off at a frenetic pace and soon we were allotted equipment etc. also to enable us to get familiar with it and also to take up rock climbing at Tekhla.
Tekhla was about 8.6 km from the institute and we trekked one way daily for 5 days with a full load to the training area. As we learned the rock craft as the training was called, we went through some thrilling moments as we went up the steep rock faces and also rappelled down many a time.

The first small accident occurred on day one when we were trying to master some boulders by free climbing. As each one of us went up the big boulders, one person stood at the foot of the boulder, to steady the climber in case he slipped and came scrambling down. It was important to soften the landing as otherwise, landing on the stones could hurt.

I was standing ready to help Pratik when he climbed. He suddenly fell from about a height of 8-10 ft but made the mistake of jumping off the rock instead of scrambling down along the face as we were coached. He came down in a bundle of thrashing arms and legs and as I caught him, his elbow hammered down the bridge of my nose, driving the titanium bridge of my specs down into the flesh. It opened a gash and blood started flowing. We were all consoling Pratik who was in tears! I held the hanging flesh back to my nose and pinched it tight. Soon the blood stopped and I got a band aid on it. It's going to be a scar, but I am really not bothered about that.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Falling in all the time!

The institute is controlled by faujis (military men) and they do not let you forget that ever! There was an elaborate 4 page minute by minute program pasted on the notice board, detailing the activities and classes we were to take part while we were stationed at the institute before moving to the mountains. Being a railwayman who has the importance of punctuality drilled into his consciousness, I was pretty cool with the timetable. However, I soon discovered to my horror that even if I reached the prescribed venue 5 minutes before the given time, I was late! All sort of comments were flying from the instructors, whistles were blowing and people were screaming at you in the hostel corridor-all asking you to 'fall in' immediately. I soon reconciled to the fact that right time to 'fall in' was 15 minutes before the published time. There were head counts all through the day to identify the missing trainees.
Soon we got divided into 'ropes' of 7-8 trainees each and were allocated a rope instructor to each rope. I got to become the leader of rope 11. For initial 3 days, trainees, mostly Ministry of Defence nominees, kept on reporting for the course and there were few changes in the ropes to accommodate all these men arriving late.
We were issued a whole lot of stuff ranging from snow boots, crampons, slings, ropes, helmet, carabiners, seat harness, gaiters, windproof suits, down feather jackets and sleeping bag, mess tin, mug, spoon and carrymat etc., along with a rucksack (around 55-60 ltr). I got some extra stuff for the rope, like rapelling jacket and mittens etc. We were taught how to pack a rucksack and soon we discovered that there was hardly any space for our personal stuff in that sack!